Eatery19
Taiwan by Twilight: A Night Market Adventure
Location
19 Ira Road
Syosset NY 11791
Attendance
102 Guests
Connect with the restaurant
Event Recap
Our 2024 finale was one for the books; perhaps the most amount of food we’ve ever had… and certainly the most amount of impromptu karaoke (more on that later).
From our first meeting with Eatery 19, it was clear this place was fueled by passion; for family (the establishment is run by Joyce King, her jovial husband Leon and sister Muni. Their kids were in the back doing their homework on our first visit) and their homeland- Taiwan being a relatively tiny island whose cuisine, and future, is overshadowed by China to the west.
So it’s no surprise that this place- named last week by Newsday as one of Long Island’s Top Ten Chinese (despite it technically being Taiwanese)-, for our money, fulfilled one of our envisioned goals for this club as good as, or better than, any of our previous dinners: whisking us to a family’s home… in a village… in some place… for an authentic dinner of local specialties.
For DCS in December, that meant pork intestines with thin noodles, a dish many didn’t realize what it was until they had… and by and large liked.
It also meant stinky tofu- the divisive dish that, well, wasn’t so divisive this week. Many of us still have a ways to go in acquiring that taste. But we tried it, or tried to try it… and that, therein, is the point. A culinary muscle flexed.
And yes, it meant some karaoke. Egged on by the cheerful, perhaps slightly tipsy Leon; Josh, Alex L. and George G. tried their hands at some Sinatra standards. As angelic as our voices were, none of us held a candle to Leon, who sang us out both evenings with a flawless “My Way”.
It was a true trip to the Taiwanese Night Market- that winding gauntlet of Taiwainese culture, creative culinary combinations, and a little Taiwan Beer-fueled crooning. But it was also a trip to the home of the Kings- Joyce and Leon, sister Muni, the aunties cooking in the back… making sure their guests finished the year well fed.















Dishing it with DCS
Taiwanese Cuisine is characterized by its indigenous cultures such as the Amis, the influx of Hakka Chinese in the 17th century, Japanese colonialism in the first half of the 19th century, and democratic refugees of the Chinese Civil War during the Post WWII rise of Mao, bringing in people and flavors from all provinces of China. Through it all, the Taiwanese have taken these notes and made their cuisine their own- seafood is big here (it is an island, after all), as are soy-based foods, pickled ingredients, and perhaps most famous of all, street food, with their famous Night Markets a global attraction. Despite it being a rather small island, there are still differences in region. The North (capital Taipei) has more mainland chinese influences; the rural and mountainous East steeped in indigenous tradition, fresh produce and seafood. The Southern cities of Kaohsiung and Taichung are none for their sweet and bold flavors, and a Japanese influence.
Night Markets are central to Taiwanese life; meandering narrow allows pulsating with culture. Here you'll find many of the street foods Taiwan has become famous for, the most popular of which are on our menu tonight. These markets began in the 17th century as the Hakka Chinese brought their market traditions, and improved under Japanese rule with greater infrastructure in cities and better organization, such as mobile food carts. The markets exploded Post-WWII as a wave of Chinese immigrants and economic hardships made night markets a place for people to congregate, bond and eat cheap, quick meals. These markets have since become a symbol of national identity and a platform for culinary innovation.
Century Egg is a preserved egg with a gelatinous dark layer and creamy yolk. A chinese delicacy turned Taiwanese staple, it began as a way to preserve eggs' shelf life in hot climates without refrigeration by coating duck eggs in clay, ash and salt. Brought over by the Hakka 18th century the celebratory dish is known for its cooling qualities, high protein, and distinct taste.
Guo Bao is a Northern Taiwanese night market speciality also known as a "Taiwanese hamburger". Savory, sweet and sour notes hit at once, and the dish is know as a symbol of good fortune. The dish is also known as "tiger bites pig", with the bun being seen a s a tiger's mouth "biting" the pork belly… and so the dish also symbolizes prosperity and strength.
Railroad Bento/ Biandang- not a dish tonight, but worth touching on as elements are on the menu. A relic of Japanese influence (with purely Taiwanese contents, these portable boxes featuring rice with chicken leg or pork chop, soy-braised egg, and pickled vegetables are sold at train stations to be enjoyed on board.
"Stinky" Tofu is an iconic night market dish, especially in Taipei. A polarizing dish due to its pungency, it is beloved nonetheless. Challenging and complex, the tofu is traditionally fermented in a brine of fermented milk, vegetables, herb, shrimp and bamboo shoots and then fried. Introduced in the early 20th century, it's like the blue cheese of Taiwanese food… love it or hate it, it's an unforgettable, purely Taiwanese cultural experience.
Popcorn Chicken is a popular street food snack from southern Taiwan featuring marinated, twice-fried dark meat in potato starch. Using a frying technique similar to Japanese karaage, the dish rose in popularity at night markets in the 1970s as a cheap, portable pop culture icon.
Oyster Pancakes are a symbol of Taiwan's maritime heritage. Common in night markets, especially in the coastal city of Tainan, the dish combines eggs, oyster and sweet potato starch with savory sauce. It's crispy, soft and chewy at once. Brought over by Hokkein Chinese in the 17th century, local Taiwanese added indigenous sweet potato starch and a sweet-salty sauce, helping it evolve into the stable we see today.
Taiwanese Sausage is another iconic street food. Using pork and adding sugar, garlic and rice wine… it's known for its balance of sweet and savory flavors as well as its juiciness. The dish is another example of Chinese influence with Taiwanese adaptations- this time taking a technique from Guangdong but replacing soy with rice wine in giving it a juicer, sweet taste.
Taiwanese Pickled Cucumbers. Pickling and fermentation are hallmarks of Taiwanese cuisine, with cucumbers being especially popular in the sweltering southern regions where more emphasis had traditional been put on preserving foods with cooling qualities. Today it is seen as a refreshing palate cleanser and a staple "cold dish" on the dinner table, meant to bring digestive benefits to a hearty meal.
Stir Fried Meifun is a comfort food originating in Southern China and brought over by the Hakka featuring vermicelli noodles. In Taiwan it has evolved into a go-to dish for potlucks, receptions and community events while taking on some of Taiwan's culinary hallmarks such as use of soy and "protein on a carb" combination.
Thin Noodles with Pork Intestines. You thought you'd get away with an Asian meal without a couple challenge dishes? Shame! But give this one a try as its a prime example of the nose-to-tail, something-out-of-nothing culinary ethos of most Asian cuisines. Paired with noodles, a speciality of Taiwan's northern regions, a garlic and black vinegar sauce mix with the meat and noodles to create a filling, brothy, delicious dish. A specialty at night markets, the dish is known as a symbol of longevity and comfort. Slurp away!
Stewed Minced Pork Belly over Rice is yet another example of the Taiwanese "meat over carb" technique. A colloquial name for the dish is "Taiwanese Bolognese", so this oughta be "fun" (get it?).
Beef Noodle Soup is Taiwan's national dish, originating in Taipei. slow cooked beef in rich broth. Brought over by Northern Chinese muslims expats who ate beef (instead of the more typical, cheaper, pork), the modern Taiwanese version was popularized by Chiang Kai-shek's fleeing Nationalist military who used slow-cooked beef meant to tenderize the meat and bring deep flavor to the broth. Today it's Taiwan's most prideful dish, spawning competitions nationwide.
Three Cup Chicken is a Hakka dish so named for its equal use of rice wine, soy sauce and sesame oil in creating a dark and sweet sauce in which chicken is simmered. Today it's a symbol of hospitality, boldness and balance.
Fly's Head. No, there aren't actually insects here. Instead, this popular hakka stir fry features flavorful minced pork, diced tofu and tiny black beans which look like… well, you know. not actually flys head, small black beans look like them. It's a comfort dish, not so commonly seen these days but as such providing Taiwanese a nostalgic reminder of a playful dish.
Cuttlefish is a prized Taiwanese fish with a mild, sweet and slightly smoky flavor. Used ubiquitously from soups to stir-fries, and common at night markets, the delicacy exploded during Japanese rule, who brought about an expansion in Taiwan's fishing industry.
Shacha Sauce is a popular condiment made of soy, garlic, chilies, dried shrimp, sesame seeds, peanut kernels, fish sauce and other spices. I could drink the stuff… and I bet you could too. Challenge, anyone?
Mochi- Different from the Japanese version, the Taiwanese version is adapted from the Hakka and features a bean (peanut) based filling.
Sago Soup w/ Taro. With sago and taro both indigenous to the indigenous Amis peoples (taro is a staple crop which symbolizes prosperity), this beloved dessert made with chewy sago pearls and soft taro in a coconut broth is a cultural staple. Its coconut influence came from neighboring SE Asian regions in the 20th century.
Taiwan Beer is a lager that uses locally grown ponlai rice, traditionally used for sake, which gives it a slightly sweet, smooth flavor. Beer in Taiwan was introduced by the Japanese. When the Taiwanese took over after WWII, they nationalized Japan's Takasago Malted Brewing company and made their first batch of Taiwan Beer in 1960. Today it's a symbol of national pride, ubiquitous at night markets, and super handy in taking on Stinky Tofu.
Hey-Song Taiwanese Root Beer was created in 1950s and is seen as a "milder" root beer with hints of licorice and sarsaparilla. It's a nostalgic drink, as rootbeer tends to be. Hey-Song also introduced their Apple Cider Soda in the 1970s, a clear carbonated apple flavored drink. Today it's a well-loved beverage popular with families and associated with festivals.
Wintermelon Tea is an ancient tea originating in Taiwan, made by boiling wintermelon with sugar to create a caramel-like syrup, which is then diluted with water. It's mildly sweet with caramel undertones and is traditionally enjoyed during Taiwan's hot summers.
Plum Juice is made from smoked plums, licorice and rock sugar- it's a balance of sweet, salty, sour and smoky that is refreshing during Taiwan's hot summers.
Grass Jelly Tea- Is made from the leaves of the mesona plant and sweetened syrup. Popular in central and southern Taiwan, it's a mildly herbal, subtly sweet drink useful for its cooling purposes.