Ephesus
Sultan’s Feast: Turkish Delicacies
January 2026
Location
514 Park Blvd
Massapequa Park, NY
Attendance
47 Guests
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Event Recap
Dead Chefs Society, or at least half of the January’s slated crew, went looking for warmth this month and found it in a quaint, easy-to-miss, store-front just across the road from the Massapequa Park train station.
After having our nearly 4-year-long weather-picking streak broken (turns out it’s either rain or sleet or snow), resulting in our first cancelled evening in our carnivorous history, the luckier-than-Monday Tuesday crew braved the plowed streets and sparse parking and were rewarded with the warmth and hospitality of Ephesus’ youthful Asli and Doruk Duygen, supported by their crew of seasoned Turkish chefs and servers- seriously, it felt like Long Island’s version of Nonnas, in the best of ways. I couldn’t help but to think of the bridge in Doruk’s native Istanbul… there connecting two continents, here two generations, and we, the diners, the passengers along for a deliciously smooth ride.
And what a ride it was… a quest, really, to derive the truly Turkish from the broader realm of “Mediterranean Cuisine”. With each dish, simple yet artfully prepared with the highest of standards, an obvious byproduct of the passion poured in by the Duygens, we came closer to the answer; a meze platter including a preparation of babagannus foreign to most our palates, and a beet salad as refreshing as the shepherd’s salad that preceded it. Sigara Boregi*, “cheese cigars”, flaky and perfectly seasoned. Arnavut Cigeri, fried liver cubes with onion and parsley, proved a derivative of fried liver I would come back for again and again. It went in, the Pide (Turkish flatbread) erasing any semblance of cold bones we may have still had… Hunkar Begendi (Sultan’s Delight) pairing chicken and lamb stew with an equally hearty eggplant puree. A mixed grill with perfectly seasoned lamb and chicken… oh and that Baklava finisher! By the time the Turkish Coffee and teas rolled around, it was a quest well-completed for DCS.
Ephesus (Instagram in the works) is a wonderful family business to support, and we hope all of you, especially the abandoned Monday crew, visit the Duygun family soon. A trip to their place is as like a visit to their native country as any of our previous hosts, it’s a coziness and connection that’s palpable as soon as you sit down, and know you’ll feel it too.
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Dishing it with DCS
- Turkish/Anatolian Cuisine is rooted in Central Asian Turkic traditions and enriched by Anatolia’s fertile lands, blending nomadic techniques with the sophistication of imperial kitchens. At its core is a respect for seasonality. Vegetables, grains, legumes, dairy, and meat are treated with restraint, allowing natural flavors to shine. Eggplant, yogurt, wheat, lamb, olive oil, and herbs form the backbone of the cuisine. Cooking methods emphasize fire, smoke, slow braising, and baking, alongside delicate preparations like stuffed vegetables and layered pastries. Meze culture reflects a communal approach to dining, where food unfolds slowly alongside conversation.
- Rakı (pronounced rah-kuh ) is often called the national drink of Turkey. A clear, grape-based spirit flavored with anise, rakı is far more than alcohol; it is a ritual, a social philosophy, and a symbol of Turkish hospitality. When mixed with water, it turns milky white, earning its poetic nickname “aslan sütü,” or lion’s milk. Rakı belongs to the wider Mediterranean family of anise spirits, but its identity was shaped in the Ottoman Empire. By the seventeenth century, it was firmly established in Istanbul’s meyhanes, taverns frequented by Greeks, Armenians, Jews, and Turks. Distilled from grape suma with anise and copper stills, rakı spread alongside urban tavern culture. In the early Turkish Republic, production was standardized, giving rise to iconic brands, while recent decades have seen a revival of artisanal, small-batch methods. Culturally, rakı is inseparable from the rakı sofrası, the rakı table. These meals are slow and social, centered on meze, conversation, music, and reflection. Rakı is never rushed, never drunk alone, and never consumed without food. Water is added first, ice second, and each guest keeps two glasses, one for rakı and one for water. More than a drink, rakı is a vessel for friendship, honesty, nostalgia, and connection. To share rakı is to participate in one of Turkey’s most enduring and meaningful dining traditions .
- Çoban Salata (Shepherd’s Salad) is the simple and refreshing Anatolian salad reflecting centuries of practical wisdom of shepherds, needing portable, hydrating food, in the area. The dish captures the essence of the Turkish palate: freshness, balance, herbs, and bright acidity and its finely diced preparation ensures that every bite delivers a harmonious blend of flavors, making it able to find an ideal match as a side for most Turkish entrees. Ubiquitous in Turkey, it symbolizes seasonality and restraint. In Turkey, it is traditionally prepared only when tomatoes and cucumbers are at their summer peak; off-season versions are frowned upon. While similar chopped salads exist throughout the Mediterranean, Çoban Salata is distinguished by its lack of cheese, sharper acidity, and precise cut.
- Humus, while most commonly associated with the cuisine of the Levant, has deep roots in Ottoman and Anatolian cooking. A speciality of cities like Antakya and Mersin, and a staple of Turkish mezze nationwide, Turkish “humus” is usually silkier, served warm, and more tahini forward.
- Babagannuş , not to be confused with the Levantine baba ghanoush , is typically a vegetable salad, rather than a tahini-based dip. It is believed to originate in rural Southeastern Anatolia, where grilling vegetables over open flames was (and still is) common. The name is sometimes linked to folklore about a beloved “pampered father,” but etymology varies.
- Soslu Patlican further reflects eggplant as the “king” of Turkish vegetables. After all, Ottoman cooks are said to have catalogued nearly 200 eggplant recipes! This particular dish is one of the more iconic meze dishes in Turkey- fried eggplant cubes coated in a tomato-based garlic sauce. Originating in the Aegean region, where the use of light tomato sauce is foundational, the dish reflects the Turkish mastery of turning a few, simple ingredients into something deeply flavorful
- Pancar Salatasi. Beets entered Ottoman cuisine through both Balkan and Russian influences, becoming a popular vegetable for pickles and cold salads. Often associated with winter meze, it’s said this striking yogurt-based beet salad goes down well with a glass of raki.
- Sigara Böreği is a savory phyllo dough pastry iconic in Turkish cuisine. Crisp and filled with feta and parsley, their cigarette shpe is what gives the dish its name. A versatile dish, it is a staple of Turkish home cooking, street food culture, and especially meze table, where its warm crunch balances cool salads and yogurt based dips. The dish belongs to the larger börek tradition, which traces its roots to Central Asian Turkic methods of cooking thin dough. As the Turks settled in Anatolia and the Ottoman Empire emerged, börek evolved into a refined culinary craft practiced in palace kitchens and neighborhood bakeries alike. Sigara böreği developed as a convenient, bite sized version that could be quickly fried and served hot.Culturally, sigara böreği represents hospitality and care. Serving it fresh from the pan signals generosity toward guests. While feta and parsley remain the classic filling, variations with potato, spinach, meat, or pastırma are common. A perfect sigara böreği should crack when bitten and is best enjoyed warm, often alongside rakı.
- Mücver is one of the most beloved vegetarian dishes in Turkish cuisine: crisp zucchini fritters flecked with herbs and often enriched with white cheese. Light yet satisfying, it sits comfortably between meze, home cooking, and the Aegean tradition of vegetable-forward dishes.The roots of mücver trace back to the Ottoman era, when lightly fried vegetable patties were common in both palace kitchens and everyday homes. Early versions were made with carrots, leeks, eggplant, potatoes, or herbs. Zucchini later became the standard as it grew abundant in the Aegean and Marmara regions. By the early twentieth century, mücver was firmly embedded in Turkish home cooking, served at tea gatherings, communal meals, and meze tables.Culturally, mücver reflects Turkey’s deep respect for seasonal produce and simple technique. It is typically served with thick yogurt, which balances its richness and highlights the herbs. Enjoyed hot or at room temperature, mücver remains a timeless expression of Turkish hospitality, comfort, and shared table culture.
- Arnavut Ciğeri or “Albanian Liver,” is one of Turkey’s most iconic meze dishes. Small cubes of lamb liver are lightly coated in flour or semolina, quickly fried until crisp, and served with raw onions, parsley, and sumac. Bold and satisfying, it is a classic of meyhane culture and a symbol of Istanbul’s multicultural food heritage.The dish entered Ottoman cuisine through Albanian communities who settled in Istanbul and were renowned for their skill in butchery and meat cookery. Their technique of flash frying liver over high heat became popular in taverns by the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. Over time, the name came to describe a method and flavor profile that is distinctly Ottoman rather than Albanian. Culturally, Arnavut Ciğeri reflects Turkey’s respect for nose to tail cooking and its love of balance. The sharpness of onion and sumac cuts the richness of the liver, while parsley refreshes each bite
- Karışık Izgara , meaning “mixed grill,” is a prime expression of Turkish fire cooking. Abundant in nature, the platter often features an assortment of kebabs, köfte, lamb chops, and chicken, accompanied by grilled vegetables, bread, and pilafs. It represents variety, generosity, and centuries of mastery over live coals. The tradition of grilling in Anatolia dates back to Central Asian Turkic nomads who cooked meat over open fires. During the Seljuk and Ottoman eras, grilling techniques became increasingly refined, with specialized butchers and grill masters developing regional kebab styles. The mixed grill emerged as a way to showcase multiple specialties on a single platter.
- Lahana Dolması , cabbage leaves stuffed with rice, herbs, and sometimes minced meat, is one of the most comforting and historically rich dishes in Turkish cuisine. Its roots stretch across Anatolia and the Balkans, where cabbage has long thrived and stuffing vegetables was a practical way to extend grains and meat. As the Ottoman Empire expanded, these wrapped dishes were refined in palace kitchens and became a cornerstone of imperial and home cooking alike.Culturally, lahana dolması is a classic anne yemeği , or “mother’s dish,” closely associated with winter, family gatherings, and festive occasions. Because vine leaves are seasonal, cabbage became the preferred wrapper during colder months, linking the dish to warmth and abundance. Every region has its own variation, from herb-forward vegetarian versions to richer meat-filled ones, sometimes accented with tart flavors like pomegranate molasses or sumac. Often served warm with garlic yogurt or cold in olive oil, lahana dolması reflects Turkey’s love of slow, communal cooking and shared culinary heritage across cultures and generations.
- Pide is one of Turkey’s most iconic breads: a long, boat-shaped flatbread baked in a blazing stone oven and topped or filled with a wide range of ingredients. Often compared to pizza, pide is far older and deeply rooted in the baking traditions of Anatolia, the Black Sea, and the Ottoman world. Flatbreads have been baked in Anatolia since antiquity, and by the Seljuk and early Ottoman periods, these traditions evolved into filled, oven-baked breads with regional character. The distinctive shape of pide emerged in the Black Sea region, where specialized bakeries still dominate local food culture. As Ottoman cities grew, pide became a staple of communal ovens, bazaars, and Ramadan meals. Culturally, pide reflects Turkey’s bread-first mindset and communal dining style. Families order several varieties to share. Peynirli pide (cheese) highlights the country’s rich dairy tradition, patatesli pide (potato) offers comforting, rustic flavor, and karışık (mixed) pide showcases abundance by combining meats and cheese on a single bread. Together, they represent the versatility, generosity, and regional pride at the heart of Turkish cuisine.
- Hünkar Beğendi, better known as “Sultant’s Delight” but more accurately translating to “The Sultan likes it”, reflecting its origins in the imperial kitchens of Topkapı Palace, is one of the great classics of Ottoman cuisine: tender lamb stew served over a silky purée of smoky roasted eggplant enriched with butter and milk. The dish emerged in the 19th century, when Ottoman court cuisine absorbed French techniques alongside traditional Turkish flavors. Its béchamel-like eggplant base is a clear result of this exchange, combining French method with Anatolia’s beloved smoky eggplant. A popular legend links the dish to the 1869 visit of Empress Eugénie of France, after which the Sultan reportedly praised it by name. Culturally, Hünkar Beğendi represents the height of Ottoman refinement and is reserved for special occasions such as weddings, holidays, and formal dinners. It is considered a test of culinary mastery, requiring perfectly charred eggplant and a smooth, balanced purée. Luxurious yet comforting, the dish remains a timeless symbol of imperial elegance in Turkish cuisine.
- Karışık Baklava Tabağı is a mixed baklava platter consisting of pistachio, milk-based, and walnut varieties. Baklava’s roots stretch back to ancient Anatolia and Mesopotamia, where early layered breads with nuts and sweeteners laid the foundation for what would become an imperial art. The baklava we know today was perfected in the kitchens of Topkapı Palace, where Ottoman pastry masters refined paper-thin phyllo, clarified butter, nut selection, and syrup balance. By the seventeenth century, baklava was a royal staple, even celebrated in ceremonial processions known as the Baklava Alayı .Culturally, baklava is inseparable from celebration. It is served at weddings, holidays, and family gatherings. Pistachio-heavy baklava from Gaziantep, walnut versions from the Black Sea, and creamy şöbiyet from the southeast all appear side by side, honoring regional pride and hospitality.