Lola
Eclectic Mediterranean
Location
113A Middle Neck Rd
Great Neck, NY 11021
Attendance
110 Guests
Connect with the restaurant
Event Recap
It’s a general policy of this club to not make people feel bad about missing out on anything. It’s insensitive… juvenile, some might say.
Allow us to break that rule this one time. Imagine if you will, us, thumbs in ears and tongues stuck out…
Dead Chefs Society kicked off the new year in upscale style at Great Neck’s LOLA, a Newsday Top 50 Restaurants honoree, where we were treated to a perfectly-executed fine dining experience focusing on twists on Mediterranean fare.
It was the first event yet where we, yes even the hosts, were surprised by an amuse-bouche, Hudson Valley Foie Gras Torchon with Sour Cherry Pistachio sourced directly (along with with evening’s other fowl) from Hudson Valley Farms, in which LOLA is a partner. The dish set the tone for the evening, from perhaps the best hummus we’ve ever had (topped with date salsa verde and a melt-in-your mouth garam fried chicken) to the “wow” factor each table experienced upon first laying eyes on the fall-off-the-bone Pomegranate Molasses Braised Lamb Shoulder. It kept coming from there, with LOLA pumping out an array, save the hummus, of off-menu specialties. We knew what we were in for, after all we can read, but the sheer execution and just how well all these novel ingredients, a derivative of the world’s oldest, meshed in our mouths to create something new and innovative, speaking volumes to the creativity and craftsmanship of the staff at LOLA.
It was that kind of night.
“I’ve been waiting for you guys to reach out for months!”. Such was the response when we first reached out to Chef Lenny Messina. He’s a special talent and his passion for his craft and dedication in picking up the mantle at LOLA is much to the benefit of we Long Island “food enthusiasts”. It’s clear to us he deserves a seat on the dais with the Francis Derbys and Jesse Schenkers of our fair island.
We have a theory here at Dead Chefs Society. Call it the “DCS Law of Restaurant Nights” where there are “Friday Night” restaurants, “Sunday Night” restaurants and “Saturday Night” spots. We tend to dabble in the former two, more casual affairs as ethnic cuisine tends to often be. The type of place we frequent on a Friday as the weekend ramps up, or a Sunday as it winds down. We all have that Chinese place we’d hit seemingly every Sunday, ya know? Then there are the Saturday joints…the tablecloths… the date night vibes with a certain level of gravitas in the service and presentation to match.
LOLA is a rare bird, technically “ethnic”, as is the core need for our group, but a “Saturday Night” spot through and through. Makes us wonder what others might be out there…?














Dishing it with DCS
Levantine Cuisine ecompasses the foods of modern-day Israel, Lebanon, Syria, Jordan, parts of Turkey and other areas of the Mediterranean region. The Levant is part of the Fertile Crescent, where the earliest evidence of agriculture was found dating back 10,000 years and so the foundations of this cuisine- wheat, barley, lentils, chickpeas, olives- can be considered the oldest in the world. Ancient trade routes exposed the Levant to spices, ingredients and techniques from other regions- namely Persia and Mesopotamia. From these places ingredients such as sumac, pomegranate and citrus were introduced. Later Greek and Roman introductions were made- bringing techniques such as roasting and baking from the former, and an emphasis on fish and meats from the latter. Later eras had a strong influence on Levantine cuisine as well: conquering Moors from Africa brought spices such as cinnamon and cardamom, the Turkish Ottomans burning coffee and yogurt. It all coalesced over the last 500 years in major cities such as Jerusalem, Beirut and Damascus, where dishes like hummus, falafel and shawarma are not specific to a cultural group, but rather the region on a whole. Levantine food is truly a culinary melting pot set inside a cultural powder keg.
Levantine Flavor and Traditions sees staple ingredients such as grains (wheat, bulgar, rice), legumes (chickpeas, lentils), olive oil and a variety of herbs and spices (mint, sumac, za’atar) mixed together to form a base for iconic dishes such as hummus, fattoush, and shawarma. Communal meals are commonplace and mezze, the sharing of a variety of small-plates, is a celebrated tradition.
Tahini is a creamy paste made from toasted ground sesame seeds, with a history rooted in the Levant, Mediterranean and North African region dating back 4,000 years to modern day Iraq, where sesame was first cultivated. Tahini itself derives from the Arabic word for “to grind”. Trade brought tahini to other regions of the then-known world and with it, it became a core ingredient in dishes like hummus, baba ganoush and halva. It’s also a popular dressing base, particularly in Israel. A nutritional powerhouse known for a potent combination of healthy fats, protein,calcium and iron- Tahini was even brought aboard space in 2003 as part of Israeli astronaut Ilan Ramon’s daily diet.
Baladi derives from the Arabic word for “local” and is meant to serve as a contrast to imported or industrialized goods; a signifier that the accompanying food item (in this case, eggplant) is artisanal and connected to sustainable, fresh, and premium practices. It’s a levantine “farm-to-table”, in a way.
Jerusalem Salad is a typically simple, yet vibrant, dish of chopped cucumbers, tomatoes, parsley, onions and an olive oil and lemon juice dressing. While tonight’s preparation takes things in a different direction, the dish is a simple mix of Jewish, Arab and Mediterranean influences that defines the region and symbolizes a shared heritage and thus, hope.
Baharat or “spices” in Arabic is a cornerstone Middle Eastern and North African spice blend dating back to Mesopotamia where spices were prized for flavor, preservative qualities and medicinal properties. While there’s no fixed recipe, the core ingredients often include black pepper, cumin, coriander, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, nutmeg and paprika giving it a balance of warm, earthy and sweet notes, with a DNA reflective of centuries of trade. It is a kitchen essential in the Levant.
Pomegranate is one of the oldest cultivated fruits in human history, native to modern day Iran and cultivated for over 4,000 years. It’s name derives from the latin for “seeded apple”. Spread to the Mediterranean through trade, it quickly became a staple in Ancient Greece, Rome and the Middle East, featuring prominently in ancient texts and even Greek mythology, the Quran, and the Torah, where it symbolizes fertility, abundance and righteousness. Today it lends a tangy sweetness to sauces and marinades.
Za'atar is another flavorful spice blend integral to Levantine cuisine, comprising dried herbs such as oregano, thyme, marjoram and mixed with sesame, sumac and salt. Another culinary staple known in the ancient world for health properties, now it is common everywhere. Symbolizing sustenance and simplicity and believed to improve memory and concentration, mothers pack za’’atar wraps for school.
Pine Nuts are the edible seeds of pine trees known for buttery, rich flavor. Consumed by humans for over 10,000 years, their usage reflects a well-travelled story: kibbeh in the Levant, pesto in Italy, Baklava in the Mediterranean, etc. The nuts symbolize, well, fertility (we wonder why) and prosperity due to their labor intensive and thus expensive harvesting method (they take 18 months to 3 years to mature).
Sumac, known as “nature’s vinegar”, is a tangy spice prized in Middle Eastern cuisine, used for over 2,000 years. Their benefits include being an anti-inflammatory and its antimicrobial properties. It carries a lemony flavor, showcasing the Middle Eastern region’s love for tangy and fresh tastes.
Fattoush is a vibrant, tangy Levantine salad known for its mix of fresh vegetables, herbs, and crispy pieces of fried or toasted bread. Tonight’s version has those, but with a bit of a twist. It’s a testament to culinary creativity and resourcefulness… and that goes for simple preparations as well as tonight’s innovative version. Fattoush rose from humble beginnings in rural levantine communities, where leftover or stale pita was repurposed into a salad to create a thrift dish. Fattoush derives from the Arabic word for “to crumble”, referring to the bread. Overall Fattoush represents the agricultural bounty of the Levant and has become a staple meze.
Halva is a beloved Levantine dessert derived from the Arabic for“sweet”. The dish itself takes many forms and flavors. Originated in Persia around the 7th century, the earliest versions were made from tahini, honey and dates. It’s a unifying dish, enjoyed by Jews and Arabs alike, and is a popular dessert during Shabbat, Ramadan, and even Diwali. A comforting dessert, halva symbolizes sweetness amongst life’s sorrows.
Olive Oil Cake has long been a staple of the southern Mediterranean, with olive oil cultivated as early as 3,000 BC and becoming a vital trade commodity. Cakes started to become common in rural Mediterranean areas where butter was less accessible and in recent times has gained popularity in upscale restaurants. Being butter-free, it carries a moist texture and earthy flavor, while citrus gives it a certain sweetness.
Labneh is a creamy and tangy strained yogurt cheese and a staple of Levantine cuisine for thousands of years as an ingredient in nomadic diets, when yogurt was an essential method of preserving milk. dating back to a time where yogurt and cheese were essential methods of preserving milk. It’s another dish with roots in resourcefulness amidst a harsh environment that today enjoys a resurgence in more upscale, artisanal settings.