Neraki

Greek Cuisine and Astoria is perhaps best characterized by the encompassing moniker "Mediterranean diet". Olive oil, herbs & spices, citrus, nuts are all part of the bounty provided around the Aegean, along with,, of course, fish, lamb, yogurts and cheese. But it's an emphasis on the quality of these ingredients that elevates Greek fare from its ostensible simplicity to a cuisine prepared with care and passion. It's not just olive oil used, it's Greek olive oil. Not herbs like oregano, but Greek oregano and so on. The authentic fare of the Greek taverna made its way stateside in the '60s, specifically to Astoria, which quickly became synonymous with Greek culture in America. Here the traditions of the old country simmered before branching out to other locales in the form of diners, contemporary upscale eateries (such as LI's Kyma or Limani) and Tavernas styled on the old country, such as Neraki.

Horiatiki or "village salad" is so called because of its traditional, often homegrown, ingredients and staple on the dinner tables of many a rural Greek household and taverna. It's a symbol of the Greek flavor profile: simple, high quality ingredients and herbs. While a version of this "Greek Salad", with lettuce, has become popular in today's Greek-American culinary parlance, this one is the "OG" and no "taverna meal" is complete without it.

Taramosalata is a salty fish roe spread that began in the Ottoman Empire and brought over to traditional Greek cuisine. A widely available dish along Greece's coastal regions and on the islands (of which there are many), taramosalata is also a central dish during Greek Orthodox fasting periods, when dairy and meat are prohibited.

Melitzanosalata is a smoky dip focusing on the eggplant, a thriving and staple product of Greece. While often mistaken for baba ganoush, melitzanosalata does not contain tahini.

Hummus, while not "Greek", per se, is a Mediterranean chickpea-based dip that, through the years of Astoria's rise as a Greek-American enclave, became incorporated into the diets and thus menus of its populace. When these restaurants began popping up in locations outside of Queens, in New York and throughout the country, so too did the popularity of hummus a "Greek dish".

Spanakopita is the iconic Greek spinach pie popular in bakeries and restaurants alike. The dish dates back to Ancient Greece, where early versions of savory pies were made with greens and cheese. During the Ottoman Empire, phyllo dough was introduced and the dish further evolved, centering around Northern Greece where phyllo dough and spinach are traditional. While many of us today see it as an appetizer, in Greece spanakopita is a breakfast staple as well as a meze, and is eaten hot or cold.

Octopadi, or octopus, is another traditional ingredient owing to Greece's long coastline and many islands. Known for its tender, smoky, and slightly briny flavor, it is often chargrilled and seasoned with Greek oregano. Traditionally, Greek fishermen used to dry octopus under the sun on wooden racks before grilling it, a method still used today. Today's preparation, grilled and seasoned with EVOO and oregano,, is especially popular in the Cyclades islands and Crete. Octopus is often paired with ouzo, as the briny taste complements the herbal, sweet notes of ouzo.

Saganaki refers to the cooking style of pan-frying in a namesake small, two-handled pan. Neraki's own variation includes shrimp with tomato sauce, a bright and hearty variation packed with flavor from garlic, fresh herbs, olive oil and lemon juice. Crumbled, creamy kefalograviera cheese (sheep's milk, sourced from Greece) and handfuls of fresh herbs finish the dish.

"Astoria Fries", or "Yia Yias" French Fries are an example of Astoria's influence in turning Greek cuisine into Greek-American. Hand cut fries are sprinkled with Greek oregano and crumbled feta. While potatoes fried in olive oil are indeed a Greek staple, enterprising Greek immigrants in Queens adapted the American love for loaded fries into their own Greek version, and the dish promptly took off in Greek-owned diners, food trucks and fast-casual restaurants in the 1990s. They go down that much smoother with a swig of Mythos.

Arni Sto Furno is a Greek-style leg of lamb, slow roasted until tender with lemon, garlic, basil leaf and rosemary. The lamb is served with ladelemono (oil-lemon sauce), potatoes cooked in the same pan as the lamb and thus absorbing its flavors. Translating literally to "lamb in the oven", the dish is a staple of Sunday family meals and family gatherings. Its centerpiece, lamb, has been important in Greek cuisine for thousands of years, often raised free-range and prized for its flavor and revered for its communal practice of slow-roasting in village ovens for a community meal. It's the ultimate Greek Easter dish, which is coming up on April 20th.

Psari Plaki is a slow-baked cod dish, cooked in a rich tomato sauce. It's a deeply flavorful dish found dating back to the Byzantine era, where fish was cooked with vegetables, herbs and olive oil in clay ovens. Today it's popular in fishing villages, as well as during Lent when meats are not allowed.

Souvlaki, popularized state-side by Astoria's souvlaki stands, dates back to Ancient Greece, where skewered meat was cooked over an open fire. Today, though it arguably stands runner up to the gyro as the symbol cuisine of Greek-American food, it still serves as an apt example of the Greek flavor profile: lean meats or fish, simply grilled, seasoned with herbs and oil perfected since antiquity. Tonight's preparation is owner Olga's father's own recipe.

Baklava is a rich, layered pastry found all over the Mediterranean but originated in Ottoman Turkey, the Greek version famous for its use of honey and walnuts. It's one of those dishes when every bakery, or every yia yia, seems to have their own recipe. It's also steeped in Greek Orthodox traditions, with some Greek families insisting on 33 layers, symbolizing the years of Christ's life.

Galaktoboureko is another classic phyllo-based dessert. Also with Ottoman roots, it differs from baklava in its use of a custard filling. It's most often served during special occasions, which a Dead Chefs Society event is, of course.

Mythos is the famous Greek lager, a smooth, crisp and simple counter balance to the Greek flavor profile. Despite its popularity, it's a relatively young brewery, founded in 1997 in the northern coastal city of Thessaloniki.

Assyrtiko is Greece's most famous white wine varietal, known for its crisp acidity, mineral-driven profile and citrusy flavors. Originally from Santorini, it is now known throughout Greece and has gained international recognition as a high-quality white wine perfect for seafood and light Mediterranean fare.