Rincon Criollo

Cuban Cuisine traces its family tree to Spanish, Moorish (North African Muslims) and French culinary traditions. Through their colonization of the Caribbean islands and the slave trade, West African, pan-Caribbean and indigenous (the Taino people, mainly) influences came into play. This means sofrito, the mix of garlic, onions and peppers similar to the French mirepoix. It means the meats, seasonings and stewing technique of the Spanish; the deep-frying technique of the West Africans; the spices, starchy vegetables and roasting of the Taino and other Caribbean natives. Of course it means the sugar and rum of Cuba itself… but also the reflection of the economic hardships of the Communist era juxtaposed against the aristocratic elegance of the pre-Revolutionary period. It's a tradition of making something out of nothing, but also of a vibrant state-side nostalgia of the Cuban diaspora that has allowed its culture to thrive in new environments, even as the motherland remains in a vacuum. Such a situation serves to make the flavors bolder, the rum stronger and each meal prepared with that much more meaning. A Cuban restaurant in the United States isn't just a Cuban restaurant- it's a cultural interpreter… a time capsule.

And about that "time capsule".  Rincon Criollo's place in Cuban and NY culinary history is such that even ChatGPT, unprompted, references its place in the lexicon of several Cuban delicacies. Its seeds were planted in 1942, when Rudesindo Acosta, orphaned at age 13 with six younger siblings to support, started selling fruits and vegetables on the streets of Santiago de Las Vegas, outside of Havana. In 1949 Rudesindo and brothers Baldo and Rene invested their savings into a one-room restaurant, Rincon Criollo, so named after a lively Cuban musical. The restaurant thrived and expanded, ultimately supporting 2,000 guests along with a bandstand and a playground. It was both a community center and a hotspot for dignitaries and celebrities… that is until Castro's takeover in 1958, which halted private enterprise and thus, the restaurant. Rudesindo ultimately stayed in Cuba, but Baldo and Rene soon emigrated to New York, not speaking a word of English, working as street vendors selling then-novel Cuban sandwiches in Central Park for years before opening the second Rincon Criollo in Corona, 1976. Rudy and Baldo continued into their '80s, when their grandniece and grandnephew, siblings Esther and Rudy took over the establishment after working for years to gain their great-uncles' trust. A second location in Huntington Station opened in 2015, with the Corona location ultimately moving east to New Hyde Park in 2024, retaining the entire staff and its special esprit de corps.

The  Mojito is a Cuban cocktail icon; a blend of white rum, lime juice, sugar, mint, soda water synonymous with Cuban culture, vibrancy, and its tropical essence. The drink traces its origins to the16th century, when indigenous Taino used lime and mint to combat scurvy. In the late 1600s, Sir Francis Drake's men mixed in aguardiente, a rum precursor, to improve the mixture's taste and…potency. The 1800s brought the development of rum by the Bacardi company, and the drink became a cooling refreshment for workers in the sugarcane field before evolving into the 20th century symbol of Havana's vibrant aristocratic social scene. Thanks in part to Ernest Hemingway, the drink was popularized on a global level, eventually becoming a staple on most cocktail bar menus, as well as a symbol of Cuban hospitality and a tie for the diaspora to their homeland.

Limonada is a "lemonade" given the Cuban twist of instead being made with limes, which are more abundant on the island. A simple beverage high in vitamin c, it's importance in Cuba rose especially during times when produce was scarce. Today it's an everyday staple, available everywhere from markets to beaches to food stands.

The  Cuban Sandwich traces its roots to Cuba's working-class communities in the late 19th century as a portable, hearty sandwich called "mixto" for workers in cigar factories and sugar plantations. It expanded beyond the island in the early 20th century, when immigrants brought it over first to Florida, namely Tampa, Miami and Key West. Utilizing Cuban bread (first baked in Tampa's Ybor City in the late 1800s), distinct for its light, airy interior and crisp crust, it's today a symbol of Cuban-American identity…those who "got out". It is made traditionally with a Plancha sandwich press, which toasts the bread and melts the cheese without adding fat, giving it its crunch. Today there's a rivalry between Tampa (with salami as the core ingredient) and Miami (ham) over who makes the best.

Croquetas originated in France during the 18th century but became popular in Spain, where they were adapted to local ingredients before being brought to colonial Cuba as a way to repurpose leftover meats and fish. The Cuban version features ham, reflecting the island's use of pork as central protein. It's a versatile dish eaten at all times of day, often with coffee.

Mariquitas are a beloved Cuban snack made of fried, thinly sliced green plantains, which are actually native to Southeast Asia but brought to Africa, and then onto Cuba via the slave trade, where a street vendor in the Oriente province sold it fresh. Today mariquitas are an island staple and ubiquitous bar and table snacks in Cuban restaurants.

Ropa Vieja is the national dish of Cuba. Its name translates to "old clothes", but we assure you, tonight's old clothes taste delicious. The dish originated with Spanish Sephardic Jews as a slow-cooked stew eaten over Shabbat before it was brought to the Spanish colonies in the Canary Islands. From here it was onto the Americas in the 16th century, where it remains popular among Cuba's Jewish community (who knew?). Over time it has evolved to include new ingredients (shredded flank steak, Caribbean sofrito) and meanings (a hearty meal of simple ingredients perfect for hard times). For while post-Revolution it wasn't available in Cuba, but now, with the advent of "tourist zones", Cubans can once again taste it, however it is ironically now too expensive for most Cubans to afford. Oh and about that name? Cuban legend tells of a man who cooked own clothes to feed family, his love transforming his old rags into into this dish. Rincon Criollo's version, it should be said, featured on an episode of Diners, Drive Ins and Dives.

Vaca Frita, meaning "fried cow", is a shredded flank steak dish considered a "cousin" to Ropa Vieja, but unique in its crispy, pan-fried preparation. A practical dish, Cuban households would "stretch" the beef by first boiling it, creating a broth that can be used for soup and rice dishes. The remaining beef would then be pan-fried, creating a dish of contrasting textures- crispy exterior, tender interior- but not before the "Secreto" step, marinating the beef in lime juice and garlic, before slow-cooking it in a tomato, olive and bell pepper sauce to create a tangy and savory dish.

Lechón Asado is the iconic slow-roasted Cuban considered the centerpiece of Cuban celebrations, especially Christmas. Honoring the Taino tradition of roasting over an open flame, the dish rose in prominence with the 16th century Spanish introduction of pork, now considered the dominant meat in Cuba. It's a dish that covers many influences beyond just the Taino and Spanish- African seasonings and mojo sauce give it flavor while the Caja China, "Chinese box", brought over by 19th century Chinese provides a wood and metal vessel by which to slow-cook the meat while keeping its skin crispy. It's a communal dish perfect for large gatherings… in essence a Cuban-style pig roast. In Cuba, Crispy pork skin is highly prized, and is typically removed and cut into pieces as a crunchy treat before the main meal.

Rabo Encendido is a slow-cooked oxtail stew braised in a tomato-based sauce with bell peppers, onions, garlic, wine and spices. Encendido means "on fire" owing more to the intense flavor and deep-red color rather than to actual spiciness. Intense flavor and fall-off bone tenderness. It's another radish with multiple influences, using Spanish stewing technique and African seasonings and braising to tenderize tough cuts, which oxtail tends to be.

Arroz con Pollo has its roots in Spanish-Moorish traditions. When Spanish settlers brought rice and their cooking techniques to Cuba. Rincon Criollo cooks theirs "a la chorrera", meaning a cream-like texture using local spices and beer to add a depth and bitterness to complicate the dish's richness. One of most common home-cooked meals in Cuba, it's a convivial, one-pot dish. In Cuba it is prepared "wet", similar to risotto, or "dry" like a pilaf. Tonight is the former version.

Mojo is a citrusy marinade made of olive oil, garlic, sour orange,herbs and spices such as oregano and cumin. The name comes from the Portuguese word molho, meaning sauce. Today it's a common marinade, or side sauce, for many Cuban staples.

Moros y Cristianos are black beans and rice, in Cuba cooked together in the same pot and seasoned with sofrito (garlic, onions, bell pepper) and bay leaves. It's a dish that tells the history of the influences of Cuban cuisine; moro standing for the Moorish North Africans who invaded Christian Spain (symbolized by white rice) during the Reconquista (711-1492). The result, a mixture of cultures brought to Cuba in the 16th century, with this particular dish then influenced by African slaves and their spices and slow-cooking technique. Today, it's a common side dish for Ropa Vieja.

Maduros (fried sweet plantains) and Tostones (twice-fried green plantains) are also considered national dishes of Cuba, balancing sweetness and saltiness, crispiness and softness. The use of plantains in Cuban cooking can be attributed to slaves of West Africa, who brought with them the frying technique to pair with the Taino's use of root vegetables (The Tainos' technique was to roast, not Fry. Plantains were later introduced by Spanish).

Yuca Rellena is made by boiling yuca, mashing it into dough, stuffing it with savory meat, and then frying until crispy. The Taino cultivated yuca (cassava) before the arrival of the Spanish due to their ability to grow in harsh conditions. The Spanish introduction of cattle, pigs and spices, along with African deep-frying techniques, evolved this dish over time into the croquette-like delicacy we see today.

Buñuelos are a traditional donut-like Cuban dessert often made with cassava (yuca) and sweet potato and served with a sweet anise-flavored honey. Another Spanish-by-way-of-Moorish treat, colonists in Cuba adapted the dish to use the local yuca and malanga instead of wheat. It's a nostalgic dish that symbolizes prosperity and joy, making it a staple during Christmas and other celebrations. It's also the founder of Rincon Criollo's favorite dessert, and thus serves as a meaningful send-off for his descendents to their customers.

Coffee was first introduced to Cuba in the mid-18th century by Spanish colonists. In the early 19th century, French settlers fleeing the Haitian Revolution brought advanced coffee cultivation techniques to Cuba, transforming Cuba into a leading coffee producer- at one point exporting millions of pounds of coffee, primarily to Spain. After the revolution of 1959, production declined and today Cuban coffee is largely a domestic-only industry… but in Cuba it's more than just a drink, it's an excuse to congregate. There's even a name for the practice, La Sobremesa, meaning to sit and linger, post-meal, over coffee, an important social tradition in Cuba. Classic Cafe Cubano is espresso sweetened with sugar, with a unique espuma, a frothy sugar foam that forms when sugar is whipped with espresso.

Doncellita, or "Angel Kisses" are dessert shots made of creme de cacao and evaporated milk, topped with maraschino cherry. It's a tradition dating back to the original Cuba location of Rincon Criollo, a thank you for dining and becoming an extended part of the Acosta family in doing so, mirroring the Cuban emphasis on hospitality, tradition and gratitude. Once served in all the finest Havana hotels and restaurants, tonight we too depart just as patrons had back in 1940s Santiago de Las Vegas. It's served tonight and every night the same as it had been back in the original Rincon Criollo in the 1940s Santiago de Las Vegas.

Hatuey is one of Cuba's most historic beers. Named after a Taino chief who resisted Spanish colonization in the early 1500s, it was first brewed in 1927 in Santiago de Cuba by the Bacardi family as an effort to diversify, quickly becoming the best selling beer in Cuba during the pre-revolutionary period. Once the Castro government seized Bacardi's assets,forcing the company into exile in Puerto Rico and the Bahamas, Hatuey faded. But like many relics of the "old" Cuba, the brand was revived in Miami, reappearing as an ale in the 1990s, rather than the original lager, spearheaded by those nostalgic for Cuba's golden era of brewing, a taste of home to those exiled and a connection to pre-revolutionary Cuba. "La Gran Cerveza de Cuba", the "great beer of Cuba", as it was once called, it is one of few beers in world launched by a rum company.