Smoked Barn of Peru

Peruvian Barbecue Y Mas

September 2024

Location

841 E Jericho Turnpike
Huntington Station, NY 11746

Attendance

114 Guests

Connect with the restaurant

Event Recap

This week, dozens of you tried (and liked) Guinea Pig…

… we must be doing something right 🙂

And while cuy (or “Fluffy”, if you prefer) was certainly delicious and a highlight our our evenings, it wasn’t the highlight for Dead Chefs Society this week at Huntington Station’s Smoked Barn of Peru.

No, that honor went to the entirety of the meal, exalted by many of you as being the “best yet”. 

Peruvian food is famous for its endless; influences and technique from Asia and Europe combine with South American inputs, ancient and modern, to create a fusion cuisine unlike any other in the world. A true mosaic of  possibilities- and it was evident this week as only one dish, ceviche, repeated from our first Peruvian dinner at La Candela in ‘23. 

Accompanied by the surprise addition of a father-son pan flute duo (who knew Simon & Garfunkel tunes were so popular in the Andes?), DCS traversed mountains of food with our usual cheer and curiosity. The “cleanest” tripe some of us may have had… yuca fries that we “could have ordered three more plates of”, and a perfectly-executed ceviche met with “wow that’s good” dishes such as Tallarines Verdes (essentially, Peruvian-Italian pesto), savory Arroz con Pato (duck and rice) and a crowd favorite Pescado a Lo Macho, fried fish filet topped with calamari, shrimp and yellow-pepper sauce. But it was the “set-closer” of Cuy that really piqued our palettes… with the support and urging of fellow members, we caught a glimpse (or was that a bone?) of an Andean delicacy dating back millennia…and expanded our culinary horizons in the process. 

Dishing it with DCS

Peruvian BBQ is the culmination of techniques and ingredients dating back to pre-Spanish, even Pre-Inca days. Its history mirrors the geopolitical history of Peru; Indigenous peoples in the Andes would bake meat with native root vegetables in earthen pots.   Spanish colonization in the 1600s brought about cattle, pigs and chickens, soaked in marinades and grilled over an open flame rather than in the earth. The Spaniards’ African slaves introduced new spices and the concept of skewering. In the late 19th century and early 20th, the Chinese and Japanese brought their own style to the scene; soy, ginger and garlic helped to define what would be called Chifa and Nikkei cuisine respectively. And while most Asian influence is seen in the pan rather than on the grill, new fusion recipes are bringing recipes with Asian-inspired marinades to the fore. Modern European influence is mostly seen in the rotisserie-style chicken, parrillada, which owes its origin to a Swiss immigrant in the 1950s. It all bubbles up to the fusion of technique and ingredients Peruvian food is known for, no matter the culinary style.

Causa is a pre-Columbian dish dating back to when the native inhabitants of the Andes cultivated potatoes. The name is derived from a Quechacha word meaning “nourishment”. More recently, the dish was prepared for soldiers during the War of Independence from Spain (early 1800s) and thus Causa has evolved to become a national symbol of unity. Causa  Crocante features a crispy potato element, a modern rendition representative of the endless creative combinations Peruvian fusion allows for. 

Ceviche is recognized by UNESCO as an expression of Peruvian traditional cuisine and tonight’s use of corn, sweet potatoes, garlic and ginger reflects the Peruvian spin on the popular Latin American dish. The dish is said to have its origins in Central Peru’s ancient Caral Civilization, who dated from 3500-1800 BC and cured raw anchovies with salt and chilis. The subsequent Moche civilization used fermented passion fruit juice and the Incas used chicha to do the same. The modern preparation of ceviche, dating back to only the ‘70s, allows the fish to marinate and “cook” in the time it takes to mix the ingredients and serve. 

Huancaina, traditionally featuring potatoes but tonight with yuca, is native to the eponymous central city of Huancayo and has grown to be one of Peru’s most representative dishes. It is said that the dish emerged as food for workers during the construction of Peru’s Central Railroad. 

Rachi is an earthy, indigenous dish popular in the highland regions of Peru. It is an offal dish, made of beef tripe, cleaned thoroughly and cooked until tender in a smoky sauce and herbs such as cumin, pepper and oregano. Like many indigenous dishes, rachi is reflective of the resourcefulness of early peoples and has grown into a traditional, comfort dish thanks, in part, to that ancient link. 

Pulpo a la Chalaca is a testament to the fresh and bold flavors of the Callao region of the Peruvian coast, just outside of Lima. A festive dish often served as an appetizer and a staple of celebrations, it features tender octopus paired with a zesty, tanga salsa (“chalaca”), garnished with cilantro. 

Tallarines Verdes, or “Green Noodles” is a popular Peruvian pasta dish featuring a vibrant green sauce made from basil and spinach. It is reflective of the influence of Italian immigrants who arrived in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. 

Pescado A Lo Macho is a popular coastal fried fish dish marked by a healthy topping of calamari and shrimp and a robust sauce made of onions, garlic, peppers, tomatoes and aji amarillo. It pairs indigenous ingredients such as aji amarillo with Spanish technique, such as frying and the use of rich sauces. 

Pachamancha, pacha meaning “earth” and  macha “pot”,  is a traditional central-Andres dish prepared with hot stones in an earthen oven called a  huatia. Meat, potatoes, herbs and other ingredients are wrapped in banana leaves and baked on top of the stones for up to 4 hours. The dish traces its origins to the Inca Empire, but the preparation itself is indicative of indigenous peoples’ penchant for truly “living off the land”.

Arroz Con Plato or “rice with duck” is a traditional dish from the northern city of Chiclayo and yet another example of the fusion between indigenous ingredients and European, in this case Spanish, technique.

Cabrito A La Norteña hails from the northern coastal regions of Lambayeque and Piura, near the Ecuadorian border, and features tender, young goat made with a variety of local ingredients, including the indigenous  chica de jora, an ancient Andean corn beer later used by the Inca during rituals. 

Chancho Al Cilindro, meaning “pork cooked in a cylinder” is a traditional Peruvian bbq technique that imparts a unique smoky flavor to the meat, the nature of which lends itself to large gatherings and celebrations. In preparing the dish, the pork is hung in a cylindrical metal drum, with aromatic wood or charcoal at the bottom, which functions as a smoker and a grill, keeping the juices intact. 

Picarones are a donut-like street-food dessert made of deep-fried, native-to-Peru squash and sweet potato that originated in Lima during the Spanish Viceroy colonization of Peru. It is fried and served with syrup made from solidified molasses (called  chancaca

Crema Volteada is a peruvian version of flan featuring a caramelized sugar topping that is inverted before serving, leaving a golden, glossy caramel layer on top. It’s a rich and creamy custard with a slightly “burnt” topping that contrasts nicely with themild custard and is exemplary of the simplicity and richness of Peruvian sweets. 

Pisco, developed by 16th-century Spanish settlers in Peru and Chile, is made by distilling fermented grape juice. Peruvian pisco is produced using only copper pot stills, similar to single malt Scotch. Unlike Chilean pisco, it is never diluted after distillation, thus making it the “good stuff”. 

Pisco Sour is the iconic tangy, sweet cocktail made centered on native pisco (a grape brandy), lime juice and egg white. 

Chilcano is the refreshing, lighter alternative to the Pisco Sour, featuring pisco, ginger ale and lime juice

Chicha Morada is a healthy, refreshing and sweet beverage made by boiling purple corn with pineapple, cinnamon and cloves. 

Inca Kola, created in 1935 by a British expat and known as “Golden Kola”, it is a bubble-gum flavored soda and the national soft drink of Peru. 

Cusquena is one of Peru’s most ubiquitous beer brands, originating in the former Incan capital of Cusco.

Wear your love for food

Loading products...

Join the Society

Be part of a community that celebrates food in a way you won't find anywhere else — monthly dinners, off-menu dishes, unexpected delights, and shared adventures around the table.

BECOME A MEMBER