Verde

Oaxacan Nights

November 2024

Location

70 E Main St
Bay Shore, NY 11706

Attendance

107 Guests

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Event Recap

As a distinguished member of DCS posted on the social networks, “You know when you walk into a Mexican restaurant and they hand you a glass of tepache, things are gonna be excellent.” Well, he ain’t wrong. The refreshing, fruity concoction whet the palette for the good stuff- strong cocktails from a bar program known for them, and a parade of Oaxacan specialties culminating in Verde’s signature “Oaxacan Market”, a platter full of meats, charred vegetables and salsas. When the lively DCS dining room goes silent, you know something’s up… and when those gargantuan plates hit the table it almost felt as if a proctor were telling their students to begin the test. 

Dead Chefs Society understood the assignment… and dove in with with the aplomb only experienced eaters can profess. When we came back up for air, it was a with a deeper appreciation for the flavors of Oaxaca, Mexico’s “culinary heartland”.

Dishing it with DCS

Oaxacan Flavor Profile is characterized by complex and savory layers of earthy, smoky, sweet and herbaceous notes rooted in native ingredients and techniques, blending ingenious cultures like the Zapotecs and Aztecs (corns, beans, chiles) with the influences of their Spanish conquerors (livestock). Smokiness is best exemplified in mezcal, charred chilis and vegetables, and grilled meats. Earthiness is particularly found in moles and dried chiles. Herbaceous notes falvor salads, guacamoles and the variety of vegetables grown in the region, while the sweet can be found in the chocolates, pineapples, plantains and honey found in many dishes. Nuts, seeds, cheese, even  insects impart a certain umami-ness to many dishes, while citrus brings a tang to marinades and salsas. Every flavor in Oaxaca tells the story of the region’s people, history, and landscapes. 

Mezcal and Oaxaca are synonymous. The spirit, distilled form the agave plant is deeply embedded in the state’s culture. Despite being distilled for centuries, it wasn’t until Spanish techniques blended with the process in the 16th century that mezcal, as we know it, was born. Mezcal is made by roasting agave hearts in underground puts lined with stones and wood, giving the spirit its smokiness. After roasting, the hearts are crushed, fermented and distilled in copper stills. The result is the sacred spirit, used in rituals, Day of the Dead offerings, and more recently as a base for haute cocktails (like the one you’ll be having today). Typically, mezcal is sipped slowly, reflecting respect for its craftsmanship 

Moles are complex, slow-cooked sauces made with ingredients like dried chiles, nuts, seeds, herbs and sometimes chocolate- the differences in composition representing a wide variety of types of mole. Mole, like mezcal, is synonymous with Oaxaca. Though often referred to in the lens of " The Seven Moles of Oaxaca " (rojo, coloradito, amarillo, verde, chichilo, manchamateles), each family or community may have its own version as well… with some mole batches known to have been boiling continuously for decades. Mole Negro, which we’ll have tonight is a dark mole made of dried chiles, sesame seeds, garlic, raisins, chocolate and warm spices. 

Tepache is a traditional Mexican fermented drink made known for a slightly sweet and tangy flavor. Its origins date back to the Aztecs, who fermented a wide variety of fruits, but pineapple in particular came to the fore after the Spanish arrived. A popular street drink, tepache often balances rich meals, being a light, refreshing drink with a low (1-2%) abv. 

Guacamole dates back to the Aztecs and was traditionally made by mashing avocados with tomatoes, chiles and salt in a stone mortar called a  molcajete, much as it is today. Onions, cilantro, citrus and other ingredients came with time. Tonight’s preparation, with apples, was introduced by the Spanish and provides a sweet twist to a cultural staple. 

Agua Chile, literally “chile water” traditionally refers to a type of shrimp seviche cooked in lime juice, and mixed with chiles, cucumbers, onions, cilantro and other ingredients. It’s a refreshing dish that reflects Mexico’s long coastlines. Jicama gives this dish a vegetarian twist to help prep the palette for the hefty stuff to come. Jicama itself a root indigenous to Mexico. Nutritious, with  crisp texture and mildly sweet flavor, it often soaks up whatever marinade it’s in. 

Flautas, or “flute” in Spanish, are tightly rolled tortillas filled with a variety of ingredients, ultimately resembling the wind instrument. The dish likely originated with Mexico’s indigenous peoples, who have been wrapping corn-based tortillas for millenia. Similar to taquitos (though larger), flautas are a beloved comet food popular with street vendors and homemade meals alike. They vary by region, with Oaxacan versions often including mushrooms, highlighting the areas biodiversity and earthy flavor profile .

"Oaxacan Market", the main attraction at Verde, this platter is meant to evoke Oaxacan flavor, technique and traditions in culinary form. An actual oaxaca market is filled with color; spice stalls selling dried chiles; an army of fruits and vegetables like corn, squash, scallions and other greens; vibrant hand-woven textiles and other crafts; an aroma of chiles, spices, herbs and moles. These markets are the lifeblood of local communities, and tonight they are the “central meeting places” for our taste buds. 

Tres Leches Cake is a beloved Latin American dessert referring to a trio of milks- evaporated milk, condensed milk, and heavy cream- used to soak a sponge cake. Relatively recent to the scene, it is said that the recipe spread across the region thanks to the availability of canned milk products. Some even say it’s a descendent of tiramisu. Pumpkin gives the cake a distinctive Oaxacan twist, as the squash is native to Mexico. The pumpkin adaptation is often associated with Dia de los Muertos celebrations. 

Modelo is a 100-year old Mexican brewery that has since grown to own the Corona and Pacifico brands as well as its eponymous brand.  Especial is its flagship pilsner, first bottled upon the brewery’s opening in 1925.  Negra is its slightly more alcoholic (5.4% to 4.4% ABV) dunkel-style cousin, first brewed in Mexico by Austrian immigrants and introduced in 1926.

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