Banjara

Indian Flare: From the Hills to the Coasts

August 2026

Location

390 N Wantagh Ave
Bethpage, NY 11714

Attendance

84 Guests

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Event Recap

The Banjara Tikka, lit ablaze by the fine pyrotechnicians/staff at Bethpage’s Banjara was all the metaphor DCS needed as it began its “Indian Flare” event in August. At the forefront of Long Island’s move towards Indian fine dining and mixology, the apt gesture at once burned down our notions of what Indian cuisine was and, once the flame subsided, set the course for what the cuisine could be. New concepts to the veterans; a high bar to clear for the uninitiated, Banjara certainly proved itself a place where standards are kids play, it’s at the limits where the fun and flavor lay. 

Here with the report is Stephanie Bezalel (@someone_elses_kitchen):

The August @deadchefssociety Dinner at @banjara_ny in Bethpage was one of those meals where choosing a favorite dish is basically impossible, because everything was that good.

This menu took Indian flavors on a seriously fun ride. From rich and smoky to spicy, tangy, creamy, and refreshing.

Banjara Tikka brought tender chicken thighs layered with yogurt, fried onion and garlic. Mauryaji Basket Chaat delivered chickpeas, potato, tamarind, mint, pomegranate and a creamy yogurt mousse. The Chicken Seekh Kebab was perfectly seasoned and savory with pickled laccha onion, while the Guntur Chilli Chicken Bao turned up the heat with Guntur red chili, sesame and refreshing beetroot shikanji shots.

The vegetarian dishes absolutely held their own as well. Chilli Momo with carrot, sesame and seaweed, came out with a soft, delicate bite and a subtle chew, filled with a lightly spiced vegetable mix that leaned savory and aromatic rather than overpowering heat. The Paneer Makhni was rich, velvety, and deeply comforting. The paneer stayed soft and pillowy, soaking up a buttery tomato-cashew gravy that was slightly sweet, gently tangy, and finished with that unmistakable fenugreek aroma that tied everything together.

The mains were just as unforgettable. Laal Maas came in bold and unapologetic. Tender goat slow-cooked until it practically melted off the bone, swimming in a deep, smoky gravy built on mathania chilies that brought slow heat. The Shrimp Malai Curry was the complete opposite in tone. Silky coconut milk wrapped around plump tiger shrimp, with Bengali whole spices adding a gentle sweetness and aromatic depth that made the dish feel light yet indulgent at the same time.

And somehow dessert still had room to impress. Rose Kulfi was creamy, floral and sweet without being overwhelming. 

Dishing it with DCS

Chicken Tikka is part of the tandoor tradition shared across northern India and Pakistan. The word tikka entered Hindi and Urdu from Persian and means a piece or small portion, describing the boneless pieces rather than a sauce. Its modern identity combines Persian and Central Asian habits of seasoning meat with the clay oven culture of Punjab and northern India. Although colorful stories link its creation to the Mughal emperor Babur, the exact inventor cannot be established. Chicken tikka became one of South Asia’s most successful culinary ambassadors, especially after migration transformed it into chicken tikka masala in Britain, but at Banjara, the presentation is, well, another exciting twist in the evolution of the dish. 

Mauryaji Basket Chaat honors Hardayal Maurya, the celebrated Lucknow chaat maker associated with Royal Cafe’s basket chaat. Maurya began building his reputation in the early 1990s and became known for serving the contrasting textures and flavors of chaat inside an edible potato basket. This places the dish within Lucknow’s culture of culinary showmanship, a primary inspiration for Banhara, where street food can receive the same attention to balance and presentation as courtly cuisine. Chaat itself is much older and belongs to a broad North Indian tradition built around sourness, sweetness, spice, crunch, and cooling yogurt. The modern Mauryaji Chaat can therefore be understood as a tribute to an individual innovator within that larger tradition.

Chicken Seekh Kebab belongs to the vast family of skewered meats that traveled through Persia, Central Asia, and the Middle East before becoming deeply embedded in Mughal and North Indian food culture. Seekh refers to the skewer. In India, the form became associated with minced meat, aromatic seasoning, charcoal, tandoors, royal kitchens, roadside stalls, and Muslim festive cooking. The dish is culturally important because it shows how Indian cuisine absorbed an imported grilling tradition and made it distinctly local. Banjara’s version include Laccha Onion, laccha meaning “layers” , which helps explain its visible form. It is strongly associated with kebab houses, tandoori restaurants, and meals built around rich meats, breads, and gravies. Its importance lies in contrast. Raw onion, citrus, salt, and spice provide sharpness and freshness beside smoky or buttery food. It also reflects the central place of raw onion in northern Indian eating, particularly in restaurant and roadside dining, where a plate of onions and lemon often signals that the main meal is about to begin.

Guntur Red Chilli is so named after the district of Guntur in Andhra Pradesh. Chillies themselves are not indigenous to India. They arrived from the Americas through Portuguese trade and were rapidly absorbed into regional cuisines. Andhra Pradesh developed one of India’s strongest chilli cultures, and Guntur became both an agricultural center and a major trading hub. Guntur Sannam, one of the region’s best known varieties, received official Geographical Indication registration in 2010. Its significance extends well beyond heat. Guntur chillies support farming communities, export markets, spice processing, and the identity of Andhra food, which is famous for assertive pungency and vivid red color. A chef using Guntur chilli is therefore invoking a specific agricultural landscape and commercial history, not merely adding generic spice.

Shikanji is North India’s spiced answer to lemonade and one of the region’s defining summer drinks. Its name is commonly connected to the Persian sekanjabin, an older sweet and sour medicinal syrup, suggesting the long movement of cooling beverages and medical ideas between Persia and South Asia. In India, shikanji became associated with lemon, salt, sugar, cumin, black salt, mint, and intense heat. It is sold at roadside stands, prepared in homes, and offered to guests as both refreshment and practical relief from hot weather. The drink sits comfortably between food and folk remedy. Its salty, sour, and spiced character reflects an Indian preference for refreshment that stimulates rather than simply sweetens. Shikanji also demonstrates how a foreign linguistic and medicinal influence could be naturalized into something now regarded as unmistakably North Indian.

Momo is the great traveling dumpling of the Himalayas. Its precise birthplace remains disputed, but its history is generally tied to movement between Tibet and the Kathmandu Valley, particularly through Newar merchants engaged in trans Himalayan trade. Tibetan versions were traditionally associated with meat and relatively restrained seasoning, while Nepali and Indian versions developed stronger spice, sauces, and wider vegetarian options. Tibetan migration after 1959 helped spread momo through places such as Dharamshala, Sikkim, Darjeeling, Ladakh, and Delhi. It later became one of India’s most popular urban street foods. 

Laal Maas, meaning red meat, is one of Rajasthan’s most celebrated dishes and a powerful symbol of Rajput culinary culture. It is commonly associated with royal hunting expeditions, when cooks prepared goat or wild game for warriors and aristocrats. The dish’s vivid color traditionally came from Mathania chillies, a prized Rajasthani variety valued for its deep red hue and rounded heat. Popular accounts claim the chillies helped disguise the stronger flavor of game, although the precise origin story is difficult to verify. Laal maas is closely related to the simpler jungli maas, another hunting dish made with very few ingredients. Over time, it moved from palace and hunting camp cuisine into restaurants and homes, becoming a proud expression of Rajasthan’s arid landscape, martial history, and preference for bold, uncompromising flavors. 

Shrimp Malai Curry is a Bengali classic. Large prawns have long carried prestige in Bengal, where riverine and coastal abundance made fish and shellfish central to both everyday eating and celebration. The name is especially intriguing because the dish is based on coconut milk, not dairy cream, despite malai commonly meaning cream in South Asia. One popular theory connects malaikari to Malay curry and to Bengal’s maritime contact with Southeast Asia, though the exact history remains debated. The dish is a festive food, appearing at weddings, holidays, and important family meals, where large prawns signal generosity and occasion. Its gentle richness also challenges the stereotype that Indian food must always be aggressively spiced, revealing a Bengali preference for fragrance, sweetness, and subtle warmth.

Paneer Makhni belongs to the modern restaurant cuisine of post Partition North India, especially Delhi. Makhni means buttery, and the sauce is closely related to murgh makhani, or butter chicken, whose creation is claimed by competing restaurant families connected to Moti Mahal and Daryaganj. Paneer provided a natural vegetarian counterpart, allowing the same luxurious tomato, butter, and cream profile to fit India’s enormous vegetarian dining market. The dish is therefore not an ancient village preparation, even though paneer itself has a much longer history. It represents twentieth century urban India, refugee entrepreneurship, restaurant innovation, and the creation of a rich Punjabi Delhi style that later became globally identified with Indian food. Paneer makhni’s popularity also shows how restaurant classics often become perceived as timeless traditions within only a few generations.

Chili Garlic Noodles belong to Indian-Chinese cuisine, a hybrid food culture that grew from Chinese settlement in Kolkata and later spread across the country. Chinese traders and migrants had lived in the city since the late eighteenth century, while Hakka communities became particularly influential in its restaurant culture. Over time, Chinese techniques and noodle dishes were adapted to Indian preferences for stronger chilli, garlic, acidity, and bold sauces. The result is not traditional food from China, nor is it simply Indian food with noodles. It is a distinct cuisine created by migration, commerce, and local reinvention. Chili garlic noodles became especially important as affordable restaurant and street food, familiar in cities far beyond Kolkata.

Bengali Whole Spice refers to panch phoron, the five seed mixture used across Bengal and neighboring parts of eastern India, Bangladesh, and Nepal. Panch means five, while phoron refers to tempering spices in hot fat. The blend commonly includes cumin, fenugreek, nigella, fennel, and mustard seed, although Bengali cooks may use radhuni in place of mustard. Unlike many powdered masalas, panch phoron is kept whole, allowing each seed to release a distinct aroma and texture.

Rose Kulfi. Kulfi is one of the great frozen desserts of the Indian subcontinent and is strongly associated with the Mughal period. By the sixteenth century, imperial kitchens had access to concentrated milk, nuts, aromatics, ice, and sophisticated methods of cooling vessels with ice and salt. Rose fits naturally into this lineage as its floral fragrance was prized across Persianate and Mughal cuisine. Its dense character distinguishes it from churned Western ice cream, but its deeper cultural power comes from the continuity between imperial luxury, summer street life, festivals, and childhood memory.

Rooh Afza is a concentrated herbal squash created in Old Delhi in 1907 by Hakim Hafiz Abdul Majeed, a practitioner of Unani medicine who intended it as a cooling tonic for the extreme summer heat. Its Persian name suggests something that refreshes or uplifts the soul. Although rose is its most recognizable note, Rooh Afza is a complex fruit, flower, herb, and botanical concentrate rather than a simple rose syrup. 

Mango Lassi. Lassi originated in the Punjab as a drink of yogurt and water, served in sweet or salted forms and valued for refreshment, hospitality, and its natural place within a dairy rich agricultural culture. Mango lassi is best understood as a later fruit variation rather than the original ancient form of the drink. Its rise reflects the prestige of mango in South Asia and the ability of restaurant culture to create an immediately appealing version for both Indian and international diners. Abroad, mango lassi became one of the most recognizable beverages associated with Indian restaurants, often functioning as a gentle introduction to Indian flavors. 

Kingfisher is India’s most internationally recognizable beer and a defining product of the country’s modern brewing industry. United Breweries traces its roots to the colonial era, while the modern Kingfisher brand was launched nationally in 1978 and grew alongside India’s expanding urban middle class, hotel culture, and restaurant scene. Its a crisp lager, designed for warm weather, and pairs naturally with the spice, smoke, and richness of Indian food. The kingfisher bird, known for its vivid color and speed, gave the brand an energetic and distinctly Indian visual identity. Over time, Kingfisher became more than a beverage. It came to symbolize sociability, nightlife, cricket sponsorship, and the globalization of Indian dining. Today the brand is part of the Heineken controlled United Breweries portfolio and remains one of India’s most prominent consumer labels.

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